Dishwasher Repair
Oakville

Dishwasher won't drain

"Standing water at the bottom"

The most common dishwasher call we get. Usually a clogged filter at the bottom packed with food debris, a blocked drain hose kinked behind the unit, or a failed drain pump needing replacement. Sometimes it's the connected garbage disposal — a clog there backs up into the dishwasher.

We diagnose all four points on-site, clear blockages, and replace failed components. Most drain issues fixed within 30-45 minutes.

Won't fill with water

"It runs dry, no water comes in"

The opposite problem from drain issues — the dishwasher cycles but no water enters. Usually a faulty water inlet valve stuck in the closed position, a tripped float switch falsely sensing the unit is already full, or a kinked supply line behind the cabinet.

We test water pressure at the supply line, replace failed valves with OEM parts, and verify proper fill cycle before leaving.

Water leaking under cabinets

"There's a stain on the floor"

The most dangerous dishwasher problem — a slow leak that ruins cabinets and floors before you notice. Common sources: a worn door gasket letting water seep during wash cycles, a cracked drain pump seal, or loose supply line connections behind the unit.

We pressure-test every connection and run a full cycle to verify no leaks before leaving. Don't run another cycle until it's checked — water damage is the #1 dishwasher-related insurance claim.

Dishes still dirty after cycle

"Have to wash them again by hand"

The dishwasher runs but dishes come out worse than before. Causes: a clogged spray arm with hard-water mineral deposits blocking jets, a weak wash pump motor not generating enough pressure, or a filter so packed with debris that water can't recirculate properly.

We deep-clean all wash components, descale the spray arms, and test motor performance. Usually a same-visit fix that restores like-new wash quality.

Dishes still wet

"Have to towel-dry everything"

Different from "not cleaning" — dishes are clean but soaking wet at cycle end. The cause is usually a burnt-out heating element at the bottom of the tub, a failed vent fan not exhausting humid air, or an empty rinse aid dispenser on units that rely on rinse aid for sheeting action.

We test the heating element with a multimeter, replace failed components, and explain whether your model uses heat-dry or condensation-dry technology.

Won't start at all

"Buttons don't respond"

A dishwasher that won't power on or won't begin its cycle. Common culprits: a misaligned door latch failing to close the safety circuit, a tripped GFCI outlet under the sink (always check first), a broken touchpad or control board, or a burnt thermal fuse protecting the unit.

We diagnose with proper electrical tools — many no-start issues turn out to be inexpensive fixes once properly identified.

Bad smell or rotten odor

"Smells like a swamp"

A working dishwasher that smells terrible every time you open it. The source is almost always trapped food debris breaking down in hidden spots: a filter packed with old food, biofilm buildup in the drain hose, or food trapped in the chopper blade assembly under the spray arm.

We deep-clean all internal components, sanitize the drainage system, and show you the maintenance routine that prevents the smell from returning.

Loud humming or grinding

"Sounds like it's struggling"

Loud noises mean internal parts are wearing out or obstructed. Grinding usually points to a broken chopper blade hitting debris, a seized wash pump motor bearing, or foreign objects (broken glass, fruit pits) caught in the drain pump.

Ignored noises destroy the wash motor — one of the most expensive dishwasher repairs. We diagnose the source and replace worn parts before they cause cascading damage.