Dryer Repair
Oakville

Dryer not heating

"Clothes come out cold and damp"

The most common dryer call we get. Usually a blown thermal fuse, a burnt-out heating element on electric dryers, or a faulty igniter on gas models. Sometimes the cause is simpler — a tripped breaker on one of the two 240V legs.

We test all components with proper tools, not guesswork. Most heating issues fixed within a single visit with parts on the truck.

Drum won't tumble

"It hums but doesn't turn"

The motor runs but the drum sits still — almost always a broken drive belt that's snapped or slipped off the pulley. Less common causes: a seized drum support roller, a worn idler pulley, or a failed motor that needs full replacement.

We diagnose the exact cause and quote both repair options before starting. A new belt costs a fraction of replacing the dryer.

Takes too long to dry

"Two cycles for one load"

A dryer running 90+ minutes for a normal load is a fire warning, not just an inconvenience. The cause is almost always restricted airflow — a clogged lint filter, packed lint inside the cabinet, or (most dangerous) a blocked vent duct running through your wall.

We deep-clean the entire airflow path, inspect the vent run, and verify proper exhaust temperature. This single fix often cuts drying times in half — and prevents a fire.

Dryer overheats

"It feels too hot, smells burnt"

Excessive heat is the precursor to a fire — stop using the dryer immediately. Causes include a stuck cycling thermostat failing to cut power at the right temperature, a shorted heating element, or a severely clogged vent trapping hot air inside the cabinet.

We diagnose with infrared thermometers, replace failing safety components, and clear vent obstructions. Don't run another load until it's checked — overheating dryers cause 2,900+ home fires annually in North America.

Loud squealing or banging

"Sounds like it's grinding metal"

Loud noises mean internal parts are wearing down fast. Squealing usually points to worn drum support rollers or a failing idler pulley. Banging or thumping is typically worn drum glides letting the drum hit the cabinet, or loose foreign objects (coins, keys) trapped in the blower wheel.

Ignored noises destroy the motor within months. We replace worn rollers, glides, and bearings before they take down the entire machine.

Won't start at all

"Totally dead, no response"

A dryer that won't power on or won't begin its cycle. Common culprits: a tripped breaker on one of two 240V legs (electric dryers need both), a broken door switch preventing the safety circuit from closing, a failed start switch, or a defective control board on newer electronic models.

We diagnose with proper electrical tools and verify every component before quoting parts. Many no-start issues turn out to be inexpensive fixes.

Burning smell

"Smells like burning plastic"

Stop the dryer immediately and unplug it. A burning smell almost always means lint touching the heating element, a worn drive belt slipping on the motor pulley, or melted wire insulation from a short circuit. All three are fire hazards within hours, not days.

We arrive same-day for burning smell calls — they're emergencies. Full inspection of heating components, wiring, and cabinet interior before deciding whether repair or replacement is safer.

Stops mid-cycle

"Shuts off before clothes are dry"

The dryer starts normally but shuts off partway through. This is often a safety thermal cutoff tripping from overheating (which itself signals a vent or airflow problem). Other causes: a failing motor overheat protection, a moisture sensor stuck in dry mode, or a control board glitch.

Mid-cycle shutoffs aren't random — they're the dryer protecting itself. We diagnose the trigger, fix the root cause, and clear any tripped safeties.